For many diners, the Michelin Guide still conjures a very specific image: hushed diningrooms, tasting menus that run longer than some marriages and plates arranged with tweezers. Type “best restaurants Dublin” into Tripadvisor and you get a neat, confident-looking list, shaped by thousands of opinions and star ratings. In 2023 it was the turn of Ahmet Dede of Dede, in Baltimore, west Cork (co-owned with Maria Archer), to secure a second Michelin star. “The one star is good food, delicious food. “To become a three-star restaurant is to basically say that this is one of the best restaurants in the world.