As a restaurant critic, I am a stickler for thoroughness. Not for me the single, random, unplanned visit to a newly opened restaurant for a frantic barge through the crowded menu, too much booze and a wake-up next morning with no memory of what I ate, followed by the smashing out of 800 words of unrelated guff to get me over onto the second page and then a desperate scroll through my phone in the hope that I took photos of the food that I can describe in such a way as to make it look like I bothered to form thoughts at the time. That isn’t how I roll. Before I write up a restaurant, I visit at least once more, to

Source: The Times June 02, 2021 16:03 UTC