The opening in London of a world-class, genre-defying, entirely new and original modern upscale Mexican restaurant such as Kol, which would have been a nailed-on gastronomic highlight in any other year, was simply inconceivable in 2020. Which is why it very nearly didn’t happen, and why, when it did happen, briefly, between lockdowns, it swiftly unhappened, and then happened again, after the second one, but not in the way it would have liked – with parties and photos and endless hoopla – but with just a nervous adjustment of face masks, a spritz of hand sanitiser and a shy opening of doors. I barrelled along not long after that second attempt to open, in mid-December last year, entirely unprepared for it. Like everyone else, I

Source: The Times May 19, 2021 16:01 UTC