Before Olympic surfers actually see the Teahupo’o wave arrive, in those final pristine moments of calm before all hell breaks loose, they will hear it coming. When it arrives, a thick slab of ocean will suddenly surge into the air and fold over on itself. But none of those surfing spots can generate the mix of exhilaration and primal fear that gave Teahupo’o its name in Tahitian: the place of skulls. Daring to surf Teahupo’o requires a willingness to place yourself at the intersection of an unstoppable force and an immovable object. Teahupo’o became a rite of passage for the world’s best surfers and a regular stop for surfing competitions.

Source: Wall Street Journal July 29, 2024 06:02 UTC