It’s only been three years, but the line at Howlin’ Ray’s in Chinatown is already the stuff of legend, a spectacle of stoicism, the world championships of waiting. The last time Nguyen came to Chinatown, he says, was to eat at Howlin’ Ray’s. I give him a box of country fried chicken, the non-spicy version, and ask the owner, Nam Tsan, 60, if he eats spicy food. Kent Nishimura / Los Angeles Times Pang Yun Fei, 77, Mei Wong, 67, and Yizhong Huang, 75, try chicken from Howlin' Ray's. We don’t eat spicy food,” lectures Yizhong Huang, 75, who took a wing but didn’t eat it.

Source: Los Angeles Times May 27, 2019 11:15 UTC