The emblematic dish at Sonoratown is the steak taco. The kitchen uses short ribs, the closest approximation in the U.S. to norteño-style agujas, the well-marbled chuck steak cut often used in Sonoran cooking. More than likely, there will be a line at the counter, affording you time to gawk at the taquero on duty, who feeds strips of beef onto the grill with the focus of someone whose life depends on perfectly well-done beef. Every few minutes, the tiny dining room, ringed in counter seating and the cheerful sound of Mexican pop-rock hits, fills with the staccato thunder of butcher knives hitting the chopping block with the intensity of a hurtling freight train.

Source: Los Angeles Times April 24, 2019 16:18 UTC