GROWING UP IN northern Mexico and Texas, then working in some of Austin’s top restaurants, Fermín Nuñez developed a highly personal take on Mexican cuisine. “I love the foundation of Mexican cooking. Reinventing the wheel is harder than just cooking with heart and letting it flow,” he said. These zucchini quesadillas, gooey with mild Oaxaca cheese and punched up with pickled peppers, epitomize the sort of cooking—equally comforting and surprising—that the chef now dishes out at Suerte, in Austin. Pistachios bring “more flavor,...

Source: Wall Street Journal September 28, 2018 15:11 UTC